IF I say that I saw the future of Portuguese cooking in a martini glass, you might conclude that I was having drunken visions.
Not at the meal and moment in question: when a server at the chef José Avillez’s brilliant restaurant Belcanto, in Lisbon, set the second in a series of amuse bouches before me. It was called an “inverted martini,” because the olive had the starring role, in the form of a pool of green juice. Gin played the cameo, having been turned into a translucent sphere the size and shape of an olive.
It was pretty, witty and plenty delicious. And it spoke to the cunning and creativity of Mr. Avillez, a rising young star on the Portuguese food scene and a big reason Lisbon is such a culinary joy, especially these days.
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